Foremans' Travel: Musings about one Kathmandu Legend

No photos were allowed of the current
Kamari so this one was on the cover
of a book about a retired one.

Nepalese Tales to ponder: The Royal Living Goddess

All major Nepal cities continue a 12th century tradition of worshipping a Living Goddess called the Kumari, and Kathmandu's is the most famous. In an elaborate process, the Hindu Living Goddess "committee" selects a 4 or 5 year-old girl to live in this house until she reaches puberty. Then she retires and the committee picks a new one. Using over 30 criteria, including that she have a flawless body, be a member of the Goldsmith caste, have perfect nose, black straight hair, and be from a Buddhist family with a horoscope that matches the king's. Families consider this a great honor so many apply. The committee narrows it down to about a dozen finalists and we don't remember how they select the winner. She represents a Hindu goddess with lots of power. After several rituals, she moves into the Kumari House right next to the ancient Royal Palace. She can bring members of her family to live there also, but there is a couple who are in charge of her. She may not leave except for about 4 special festivals a year. During these outings, she performs certain duties and is always carried because her feet may not touch the ground. These rules vary from city to city in Nepal, but Kiran says they all have a Kumari.

We go into the house courtyard before noon and are told to wait, and that we may not take pictures of her if she comes to the window. Another large tour group comes in and their guide simply calls to her to come to the window. Kiran was surprised that he would be so bold, but her keeper came to the other window and said she would appear soon. The guide told the other group she would be there about 45 seconds and, again, no photos. Whoopee… Here comes this beautiful child who sits at the window gazing blankly across the courtyard for about a minute and off she goes.

Kiran says the Kumari comes in the same door we use on her first arrival, then for her official functions she leaves by one side door and returns by the other. On her retirement, she goes out the door she first came in. Oh, one more thing: a myth that survives goes that if a man marries the retired Kumari, he will die in the first 6 months and the family will be disgraced. However, most retired Kumari live on normally as mortals.